Everyone has seen the Chinese BBQ meats hanging in the window. But those are often Hong Kong-inspired. In this three-part series, I'm off to Guangdong province, in southern China, to chase the roots of the BBQ meats in the window and meet the people still roasting the old-fashioned way. In this episode, part one, I'm with Chen Naqiao (陈那乔) and his son Chen Weiliang (陈伟良) at their farm restaurant in the Zhanjiang countryside, where they raise, slaughter, roast and serve a local breed of pig from their underground ovens.

Si les Français fêtent le Beaujolais nouveau le 3 ème jeudi du mois de novembre, les Américains ont aussi leur rituel de novembre avec la c...